Eden in the East: Riding in Arunachal Pradesh

There are lots of fantastic issues to see whenever you tour this nation, particularly on two wheels. Breathtaking vistas, remoted landscapes, and phenomenal roads – they’re all to be discovered within the huge nation we name dwelling. Nonetheless, for those who consider it, it’s comparatively simple to return throughout one, and even two of these items collectively; however all three – that’s a fairly uncommon phenomenon, particularly when it’s for days on finish. And, that, is precisely what makes India’s easternmost state the using heaven you by no means knew of. 

There’s two the explanation why this journey befell in any respect. The primary was that Honda was eager to showcase that its, er, ‘royal’ bike is also companion on an extended journey by means of an unique location. The opposite is that lately, Arunachal Pradesh has grow to be eager to confide in choose types of tourism, together with journey and bike tourism. The state has been fairly closed off up to now, and simply getting into it at the moment requires an Interior Line Allow, though this may be fairly simply organized in quite a few locations, the Dibrugarh airport in Assam being one. Thoughts you, that allow will solely get you up to now, and there are nonetheless loads of restricted areas inside Arunachal that can require separate permissions of their very own. 


Our journey started in Dibrugarh and it was simply a few hours earlier than we crossed the Bogibeel bridge over the startlingly-wide Brahmaputra. Not lengthy after, we arrived on the state border marked by the small city of Ruksin. Crossing into Arunachal immediately has the world go a little bit quieter and it simply looks like there’s far fewer folks round. 

‘Exploring’ by means of Google Maps will present you that Arunachal has the darkest shade of inexperienced you’ll see in our nation, one thing that may solely be related to a normal lack of individuals. For the following 5 days, site visitors would die all the way down to an absolute minimal, to the purpose that we’d typically see only one car each 10 minutes or so. 

Our first day’s vacation spot was the gorgeous riverside village of Bomjir. I’d been right here 5 years in the past for the Orange music pageant and recall getting there concerned a hair-raising, one-hour-odd drive at nighttime throughout the dry riverbed of the large Dibang river. Hair-raising as a result of half-way throughout, we have been crossed by a rickety outdated bike that emerged out of the darkness, a country-rifle slung over its rider’s shoulder and a freshly shot deer carcass roped to the again seat – welcome to the wild zone. 

This time round, issues have been relatively completely different. As an alternative of concern at nighttime, we have been greeted by some easy and spectacular mountain roads with not a pothole in sight. So easy and quick they have been that we reached our vacation spot effectively earlier than sunset, which occurs a lot earlier in these components. 

It should have been some sight to see a prepare of Honda CB350s scraping the life out of their foot pegs as they saved tempo with the lead rider on an Africa Twin. The CB has an impressively nimble and impartial chassis, however its painfully tall gearing meant that we have been squeezing each final rev out of the long-stroke motor to maintain the hurries up. It’s definitely not the way in which this bike is meant to be ridden, however to its credit score, it didn’t appear to thoughts.

Huge bridges, just like the 6.2km Dibang River Bridge, have opened within the latest years.

This story of spectacular roads was to stay a relentless for the rest of our time within the state. The truth is, the brand new Sisseri River bridge at Bomjir is India’s second longest, at 6.2km lengthy. Certain, some smaller inside roads could possibly be dangerous, however all the primary highways we rode by means of have been merely magical. Come to think about it, we in all probability encountered not more than a handful of potholes over 5 days. 

After all, a lot of that is because of the rising menace from our ever-optimistic neighbours to the east and street system is significant to supporting a powerful line of defence. Talking of which, we did come throughout the odd military car, however to not the extent that you simply’d see up in Ladakh. Maybe that was as a result of we by no means went near the extra delicate border areas like Tawang or Kibithoo. 

Our authentic itinerary had extra mountainous locations like Walong and Hayuliang, however they have been dropped on account of landslides. So, whereas Arunachal additionally has Ladakh-style terrain with excessive climate to supply, it wasn’t a part of this journey. 


Day two had us maintain base at Bomjir and exit on an exploratory journey up the street in direction of Hayuliang. Right here, we solely discovered extra spectacular views, together with the mountain street you see on the opening image of this story. On the third day, nevertheless, we have been in for a change of scene. This time, we’d be heading to the city of Miao, after which additional on into the Namdapha Nationwide Park. 

The entire of Arunachal is a biodiversity hotspot, however this tiger reserve is sheer paradise to anybody who loves nature and there are scores of endemic wildlife species that decision it dwelling. We bought particular permission to journey pretty deep into the park to reside at a government-run forest lodge. The journey inside was one of many extra memorable moments of the journey.


We typically requested some fairly unreasonable issues of the CB350, however its chassis by no means as soon as did something unpredictable.

About half an hour down a slippery, muddy path by means of the forest, we arrived on the lodge; maybe a little bit quicker than we should always have, however with filthy bikes and large foolish grins nonetheless. The CB350 as soon as once more showcased that its chassis can fortunately tackle way more abuse than the function it was designed for. Regardless of issues just like the intrusive heel shifter, non-switchable ABS and tough standing ergos (duh!), the CB did a tremendous job of hammering by means of the muck. If something, we have to lengthen our apologies to all of the wildlife that in all probability wouldn’t have appreciated the bike’s loud and considerably synthetic-sounding exhaust observe as a lot as most house owners appear to. 


After a superbly peaceable, cellular network-free day within the park, there was a deal with in retailer for the following day. From Namdapha’s forest trails, we blasted by means of some spectacular roads to the border city of Nampong. With additional particular permission, we have been allowed to climb the street as much as Pangsau Go, proper as much as the Indo-Myanmar border. 

Pangsau Go follows the unique Stilwell street that was constructed in World Battle II and named after American Common Joseph Stilwell. The story of this route from Ledo, Assam, to Kunming in China is a captivating one which deserves additional studying up on. Basically, it performed a sizeable function within the Asian theatre of WW2. Nonetheless, 1000’s of lives have been misplaced in its building, which concerned forging by means of almost impenetrable jungle.


Wealthy and various cultures in Arunachal, and virtually all the time accompanied by smiling faces.

Whereas a few of the authentic Stilwell street has been reclaimed by the jungle after the conflict, Pangsau Go was once often utilized by the locals proper as much as the beginning of the pandemic. Sadly, it has been closed to even the locals for over a yr now. When it was open, locals from each side would meet on the market on the high to commerce as soon as each 10 days. 

The Pangsau Go market is now a ghost city, however given their cordial relations with the military on the opposite facet, the forces who guard our border truly allow us to stroll throughout to see the muse stone that marks the Go on the opposite facet. To have the ability to stand on the highest of a Go and breath within the recent air on overseas soil with no formal paperwork… that was fairly a sense! 


The ultimate day of our time in Arunachal was within the city of Namsai the place we stayed in a resort that bordered the gorgeous Namsai Golden Pagoda. A quiet night spent strolling the pagoda gardens was the proper setting to replicate on the best hits of the times passed by. 

We solely noticed part of Arunachal and I’m longing to return again for extra. It’s not simply the promise of gorgeous roads, unusual and fantastic meals, and even the nice and cozy and welcoming folks. What has me hooked is the sense that point has moved a little bit slower in these components. The forests seem historical and omnipotent, and even when you could also be on pristine tarmac, the countryside seems like a scene out of a Rambo film with nothing greater than fundamental bamboo silted homes making up the small villages. The folks themselves have a deep-rooted connection to nature and there’s an enormous variety of tribes and communities, every with their very own languages and cultures. 

I absolutely perceive the state’s want to feed on the boundless buffet that’s tourism, however additionally they have an enormous accountability to take care of what they’ve. The typical Indian vacationer, sadly, is usually a terribly damaging species, one thing evident in what’s left to be discovered on the extra widespread spots in Uttarakhand, Jammu and Kashmir, and Himachal. 

It will seem that Arunachal’s management is aware of this, as a result of the numerous honorable ministers we met alongside the way in which saved speaking about wanting restricted, however high quality tourism for his or her state. Isn’t it good to know that motorcycling falls underneath that umbrella? Honda says it’s additionally contemplating extra occasions like this for its personal prospects, right here and in different equally particular areas.


All the things you see past the barbed wire fence is in Myanmar territory.

In case you are sitting at dwelling proper now and dreaming up an important motorcycling escape as soon as life finds some sense of normalcy once more, add Arunachal Pradesh to your record. It’s not the best state to get to and it’s not the best to get round both, however I can let you know from expertise, it’s price it.


From the highest of Pangsau Go there’s a transparent view of a lake within the valley on the Myanmar facet. Of the numerous folklore tales that give its title, the preferred is that it holds the stays of a number of allied plane from World Battle II. Legend has it that these planes could be flying in low visibility and be unable to make the climb when the Pangsau peak immediately emerged forward. Whereas desperately making an attempt to make an emergency touchdown in what appeared like a flat valley under, they’d find yourself within the lake as an alternative. True or not, it’s a proven fact that there are various crashed WW2 plane misplaced inside the wild jungles of the north east.

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